🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.